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Waterproofing Exterior in Julington

Here you can see the “build” on the top of the wall, stucco finishes to ensure the stucco gets filled, waterproofed and will stay a dependable, sun resistant, easily-cleaned, mildew and surface mold resistant waterproofing membrane. Photo-ed here is Sherwin Exterior Duration Satin. Our favorite and “top-pick” for top of the line exterior coating for long term sun fading resistance and “color fastness”.

Recessed panel, reveal-styled wainscoting installation in Mandarin

Custom build-out wainscotting with a recessed picture frame detail.

Exterior waterproofing and crack repair

Heavy pressure wash with overnight dry time. Then extreme caulking filling all cracks with Shermax elastomeric sealant.

After overnight curing we cover everything with Loxon XP elastomeric waterproofing system. Another overnight cure period followed by either Duration or Resilience satin to stand up to the sun for a much longer period then Loxon by itself. This customer elected for Duration for the added 3-5 years (approx). of paint life.

Drywall replacement off of Ortega Farms

Westside custom home on the river had water intrusion and damaged half the drywall in the home. We replaced drywall with mold/mildew resistant drywall. We use screws only, no nails.

Popcorn removal, knockdown install and ceiling painting in Marsh Landing in Ponte Vedra Beach

This home was built in 1981 so we had customer take sample of existing original popcorn material that has the possibility of containing asbestos fiber. Customer dropped off samples after calling in to get small checklist from Lynn Bundoc (904)200-2247 and her boss the owner, Tammy. In 24 hours we got our clearance email back and it was under $150 cost I believe.

Day #1, we cover everything, bag and plastic everything possible then dampen texture lightly. I try to take off, and remove (If possible) everything possible before starting. To make covering and maneuvering easier for the entire process.

Then we dampen, wait 10-20 minutes then lightly scrape texture, making sure to stay out of the tape joints. We prefer to get 99% of the original texture and “slurry” or mix off so we can seal ceilings with special clear, low VOC sealer to seal in any dust from original drywall installation, promote a higher-adhesion surface for texture application and resurface ceiling, leveling small scratches, gouges and even screw head depressions on occasions.

We just switched over in July of this year from oil-based primer/sealers under our textures (which we have used for the last 12 years) to low odor, low VOC (nasty heavy chemicals) clear sealers for way less complaints about odors (and burning eyes/noses for first day usually), quicker dry times, and slightly less price point ($100 less per project, average). Odors being the largest reason, we got 3-5 complaints (mostly minor) about oil-based primers/sealers per year since 2011 (when we started averaging one popcorn removal per week, at 52 scrapes (popcorn-to-knockdown conversions), a year.

Now we have approx. 16 popcorn conversions using clear low-odor sealer and we are loving the feedback so far. We tested adhesion, on test piece, and it is hard as a rock. We will not be going back to the oil primer, unless of course we have to go into “ashtray interior smoker removal regiment”. That is still the only way to get rid of those tar stains and/or odors. Regiment goes as follows, clean walls trim and doors, remove tar (mechanical/chemical), clean with TSP, rinse walls with fresh water, allow for dry time, seal with oil-sealer then paint over. 9 step process. Take one step out, odors can come back. Or stains. Or both.

Exterior waterproofing and crack repair in Queen’s Harbor

Heavy pressure wash with tons of bleach. Filled cracks with sealant then coated all stucco with Loxon XP. Waited overnight then overcoated Loxon with Resilience satin for better long term color fastness.

Front door restoration step 2B “second stain”

Sometimes the customer requests a second coat of stain to deepen our results from first stain. Sometimes the wood does not absorb stain everywhere equally. This can be because the type/style of wood grain or it might be a wood-styled vein which can sometimes be a darker color, harder/softer material and a dryer or moist-er section of our wood. After all, they are random natural sections of natural tree fibers!!

We can also use the second coat sometimes to stain lightly most areas then “flood”, light areas in hopes we can help it to “catch up”!!! Sometimes we use water to open the wood cells up if we have a problematic section. This is called “water popping” but has to be done on a super minimal scale. If we are nervous about the woods ability to absorb we can try to “condition” the grains with oil-based Wood Conditioner to maximize the woods ability and can create a more even appearance and stain uniformity.

Sometimes we suggest an extra day or two of drytime/curetime before sealing moisture in with a blanket-like set (2 or 3 usually) of separate thick coats of oil-based polyurethane Or Spar Urethane “Helmsman Premium Spar” our “favorite” because of the UV blocking ability and ability to “stand up” to our Ponte Vedra sun and rainy seasons. I have a door that we did with our restoration process, that has been cleaned each year, by the customer and we showed up on the fifth year 2 days after customer lightly scrubbed and bleached door and casings and we scuffed Spar with some 220 paper, them vacuumed all surfaces before wiped all surfaces with dampened tack rag to remove fine dust from millions of newly created surface cracks. I put one thick coat on 3 (originally) coated door and jamb.

Front Door Restoration – Phase #2 Staining

Next we take customer selected stain after it’s been tested (and accepted by customer) and apply stain to the door usually one coat of stain per day. The grains of the wood have to accept the stain and it has to dry in place so that we don’t reactivate the original stain. Stains can be progressive if they dry in-between coats. But once the wood is “full” that’s all that that wood will stain. Once the color is accepted we can move to the final phase “Sealing”. These photos are from the “first coat” of a door that will take 2 coats of stain to get to customer’s satisfaction.

Front Door Restoration – Phase #1 Stripping

This is the beginning of the restoration process where we cover all the hardware that were not taking off with blue tape and strip the entire surface to be stained to relieve the top coat and polyurethane and lacquer coatings. We use high quality strippers and usually strip the door two or three times in most cases. Then we clean the door really well to make sure that all the polyurethane dry crumbs and all the corners and edges are Clean and Free Of top coats. Then we wipe the door down with mineral spirits to relieve any topical contaminants before the next stage. If the door is damp we wait until the next day for phase #2, staining.

Interior painting in Nocatee

Customer wanted her hall bathroom and an accent wall in her nursery painted. She called me, I told her a price and we scheduled her!! The following Sat morning about 10 AM rolls around, and we’re there!! Customer bought paint and tape and used our account to save herself about $75 total.

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